How Many Carabiners Do I Need for Climbing?

As you begin your climbing journey, one of the most common gear-related questions is about building your first rack of carabiners. The answer isn't a single number but depends entirely on your chosen discipline—sport climbing, trad climbing, or top-roping. Having too few can limit your options and compromise safety, while too many adds unnecessary weight and expense. This guide will break down the carabiner needs for each climbing style, helping you build a versatile and efficient kit.

The Foundation: Understanding Carabiner Types

Before counting, know what you're counting. Your rack will consist of two main types:

1. Non-Locking Carabiners: Primarily used for the rope-end of quickdraws and for racking gear. They are lightweight and designed for speed.
2. Locking Carabiners: Used for any critical, life-support connection where accidental opening is a risk. This includes belay devices, anchors, and rappel setups.

Sport Climbing: The Standard Setup

Sport climbing involves clipping pre-placed bolts, so your rack is primarily composed of quickdraws.

• Quickdraws: A standard sport climb requires 10-12 quickdraws. Each quickdraw uses 2 non-locking carabiners (one bolt-end, one rope-end). This means you need 20-24 non-locking carabiners dedicated to your quickdraws.
• Belay & Anchors: You'll also need:2-3 Locking Carabiners: One for your belay device, and one or two for anchoring yourself to the belay station or for building a redundant anchor on the bolts.
• Sport Climbing Total: ~27 Carabiners24 Non-Locking Carabiners (for 12 quickdraws)3 Locking Carabiners

Trad (Traditional) Climbing: A Modular System

Trad climbing requires placing your own removable protection (cams, nuts), so the system is more complex and variable.

• Quickdraws/Extensions: You'll need a mix of standard and alpine (sling) draws to connect your gear to the rope. A good starting point is 8-12 draws, using 16-24 non-locking carabiners.
• Racking Carabiners: You'll need a separate non-locking carabiner for each piece of protection (cam, nut) to attach it to your harness. For a modest rack of 12 cams and a set of nuts (using 2 carabiners), that's another 14 non-locking carabiners.
• Belay & Anchors: This is where locking carabiners are crucial.4-6 Locking Carabiners: Two for your belay device (useful for guide-mode devices), two for the anchor master point, and two for building the anchor and attaching yourself.
• Trad Climbing Total: ~44 Carabiners38 Non-Locking Carabiners (24 for draws + 14 for racking)6 Locking Carabiners

Top-Roping and Gym Climbing: The Minimalist Approach

For clipping into top-rope anchors or gym climbing, the needs are simpler.

• Personal Gear:1 Locking Carabiner: For your belay device.1-2 Non-Locking Carabiners: For a chalk bag and a gear clip.
• Setting up a Top-Rope Anchor (if applicable):2-4 Locking Carabiners: For connecting the rope or slings to the anchor points.
• Top-Roping Total: ~6 Carabiners2 Non-Locking Carabiners4 Locking Carabiners

The Versatile "Extra": Pear-Shaped (HMS) Lockers

Regardless of your style, one or two pear-shaped locking carabiners are incredibly versatile. Their large, rounded shape is perfect for anchoring, belaying with a Munter hitch, or accommodating a bulky knot like a figure-8.

A Starter Kit and How to Build Up

If you're just starting out, a sensible initial purchase is:

• 4-6 Locking Carabiners (including 1-2 pear-shaped)
• 10-12 Non-Locking Carabiners

This allows you to build 5-6 quickdraws and have lockers for belaying and anchors. You can then expand your collection as you progress into sport or trad climbing.

Quality Over Quantity: A Final Word

While these numbers provide a guideline, remember that quality and proper use are more important than the exact count. Invest in certified, reliable carabiners from reputable brands. Learn their proper application—when to use a locker, how to avoid cross-loading, and how to inspect them for wear. Your rack of carabiners is your toolkit for safety; build it thoughtfully, understand its components, and you'll be prepared for a wide range of climbing adventures.