Can you use climbing carabiners for via ferrata?

Via ferrata adventures blend hiking and climbing, but the gear requirements straddle a gray area between these disciplines. While standard climbing carabiners seem compatible, using them for via ferrata introduces hidden risks that could turn a scenic route into a life-threatening scenario. Let’s dissect the technical, regulatory, and safety factors to determine when—and if—climbing carabiners can suffice.

The Physics of Via Ferrata Falls: Why Gear Matters

Via ferrata falls generate forces exceeding typical climbing scenarios due to:

• Fixed anchors: No rope stretch amplifies impact forces.
• Pendulum risk: Swinging into rock faces creates multidirectional loads.
• Equipment fatigue: Frequent clipping/unclipping on steel cables wears gear faster.

A UIAA study found via ferrata falls can exert 6-12 kN—double the force of a sport climbing lead fall.

Climbing vs. Via Ferrata Carabiners: Key Differences

When Climbing Carabiners Might Work (Temporarily)

1. Emergency Use: If a via ferrata carabiner fails mid-route, a UIAA-certified locking carabiner can serve as a backup.
2. Dry Conditions: Short routes in arid climates with minimal steel cable abrasion.
3. Low-Risk Sections: Protected traverses with minimal fall potential.

Never use:

• Non-locking carabiners
• Wire gates
• Carabiners with <25 kN major axis strength

The Hidden Dangers of Improvised Gear

1. Corrosion: Steel cables shred aluminum carabiners’ anodizing, accelerating wear.
2. Gate Wear: Cables’ sharp edges damage gates after 50+ clips (per DMM lab tests).
3. Cross-Loading: Via ferrata’s fixed angles increase minor axis failure risk.
4. Legal Void: Insurance may deny claims if non-compliant gear caused an accident.

Via Ferrata-Specific Carabiners: What Makes Them Unique

1. Stainless Steel Construction: Resists rust from cable friction and rain.
2. Auto-Locking Gates: Dual-action mechanisms (e.g., Petzl Scorpio) prevent accidental opening.
3. Wide Mouth Design: Accommodates thick steel cables without snagging.
4. Reinforced Spines: Handles repeated sideways pulls from pendulum falls.

Top Models:

• Edelrid Strike Slider: 30 kN, TÜV-certified.
• Kong via ferrata K2: 28 kN, integrated shock absorber.
• Petzl Scorpio: 25 kN, auto-locking.

Regulatory Requirements: CE EN 958 Explained

The CE EN 958 standard mandates via ferrata gear pass:

• Dynamic Load Test: 15 kN force applied 5 times without failure.
• Corrosion Test: 144 hours in salt spray chamber.
• Gate Cycle Test: 25,000 open/close cycles.

Climbing carabiners (CE EN 12275) aren’t tested under these conditions, making them legally non-compliant in many regions.

Real-World Accident Analysis

In 2022, a French climber fell 10 meters on a via ferrata using a Petzl Spirit carabiner. The carabiner held, but lab analysis revealed:

• Gate Grooves: 1.2mm deep from cable abrasion.
• Spine Fatigue: Micro-cracks reduced strength to 18 kN.
• Legal Fallout: The climber’s insurance denied coverage due to non-EN 958 gear.

Expert Recommendations

“Via ferrata is climbing’s forgotten middle child—it demands hybrid gear. Never assume climbing kit translates. Treat it as its own sport.”—Luis Alfonso, Via Ferrata Guide & Gear Designer

The Cost of Cutting Corners

When in Doubt: Hybrid Solutions

1. Add a Sleeve: Slide heat-shrink tubing onto climbing carabiners to reduce cable abrasion.
2. Double Up: Use two locking carabiners in opposed directions for redundancy.
3. Rent Gear: Many via ferrata hubs rent EN 958 kits for €10/day.

While climbing carabiners can physically connect you to via ferrata cables, they’re a gamble with stakes too high to justify. For infrequent users, renting certified gear is safer and cheaper long-term. As the alpine adage goes: “The mountain doesn’t care how you saved $50—only if you survived.”