Swivel carabiner size guide

Selecting the correct swivel carabiner size isn’t just about dimensions—it’s about balancing strength, weight, gate clearance, and application. Use this data-driven guide to optimize your setup.

Critical Size Metrics & Standards

Size Recommendations by Use Case

1. Quickdraws (Rope End):Optimal: Petzl Am’D Ball Lock (109mm, 19mm gate, 62g)Why: Low-profile body, smooth swivel, sufficient gate clearance for dynamic clipping.
2. Anchors/Rappel Devices:Optimal: Black Diamond RockLock (112mm, 22mm gate, 85g)Why: Wider gate for frozen/stiff ropes; robust screw-lock security.
3. Alpine/Trad:Optimal: Camp Photon Wire Swivel (105mm, 20mm gate, 48g)Why: Ultralight yet certified (23kN); wiregate resists icing.

4 Sizing Pitfalls to Avoid

1. Oversized Gates (>25mm):Increases snag risk on rock/gear (e.g., older DMM Revolvers).
2. Undersized Strength (<20 kN):Avoid "accessory" swivels sold for non-load-bearing uses.
3. Incompatible Rope Pairings:Skinny doubles (7mm) + wide gate (23mm) = risk of cross-loading.Thick singles (10.5mm) + narrow gate (18mm) = friction drag.
4. Weight Mismatch:Heavy swivels (e.g., 100g) on quickdraws unbalance the draw.

Pro Sizing Checklist

✅ Certification First: UIAA 121 or EN 12275 markings.
✅ Match Gate to Rope: Test your rope in the carabiner – it should insert smoothly without forcing.
✅ Prioritize Bearings: Ball-bearing swivels (Petzl, DMM) > bushing models for icy/gritty conditions.
✅ Field-Test Compactness: Ensure the carabiner doesn’t protrude beyond your quickdraw dogbone.

When Size Affects Safety

• Gate Interference: Swivels <100mm long may rotate into positions where the gate presses against slings, preventing closure.
• Edge Contact: Larger swivels (>120mm) increase risk of loading on rock edges during traverses.
• Worn Swivels: Measure gate spread – if >6mm under tension, retire immediately (EN 12275 failure threshold).

Top Models by Size Class

Key Takeaway: The "right size" combines certified strength (≥23 kN), a 19–22mm gate for your rope diameter, and a 100–110mm body to minimize snags. Prioritize UIAA-tested models from Petzl, Black Diamond, or DMM, and always match the swivel’s physical dimensions to your climbing discipline—lighter for sport draws, robust for anchors. When in doubt, smaller and stronger beats bulky and marginal.