How to inspect a climbing carabiner for damage?

Your climbing carabiners are the critical links in your safety chain. Unlike a rope, which shows obvious signs of wear, a carabiner can fail catastrophically with little warning if it has been damaged, worn down, or fatigued. A systematic pre-climb inspection is not just a good habit—it's a non-negotiable part of responsible climbing. This guide will walk you through a professional-grade inspection process to ensure your gear remains trustworthy.

Before starting, clean the carabiner with a soft brush and water to remove dirt and grit that can hide damage.

The Three-Part Inspection Framework

Adopt a methodical approach: Look, Feel, and Function Test.

1. Visual Inspection: The "Look"

Examine every millimeter of the carabiner under good light.

• Cracks: Look for any hairline fractures, especially at the base of the nose and the ends of the spine. Any visible crack, no matter how small, means immediate retirement.
• Deep Gouges and Grooving: Superficial scratches are normal. However, deep gouges that you can feel with a fingernail act as stress concentrators and can compromise strength. Pay special attention to the rope-bearing side of the spine on quickdraw carabiners, where "rope grooves" can form over time.
• Sharp Burrs: Feel for any sharp edges or raised metal spots. A sharp burr can cut your rope's sheath or slice your skin.
• Corrosion: While aluminum doesn't rust, it can corrode into a white, powdery substance. This is more common on steel carabiners (like aiders). Corrosion weakens the metal.

2. Gate Action: The "Feel"

This tests the heart of the carabiner's functionality.

• Smooth Operation: The gate should open and close smoothly and freely without any binding or grating. It should "snap" shut with authority.
• Gritty Sensation: A gritty or grinding feeling when opening the gate indicates internal contamination (sand, dirt) or corrosion of the spring or pivot. This requires cleaning, and if it persists, retirement.
• Gate Spring Strength: The gate should have a strong, positive spring action. If it feels sluggish or weak, the spring may be fatigued.

3. Physical Play and Function Test: The "Function"

• Gate Play (Wobble): Hold the carabiner body and try to wobble the gate side-to-side and up-and-down. A small amount of lateral play is normal, but excessive wobble indicates significant wear on the pivot mechanism, which can lead to failure.
• Gate Stick: With the gate open, apply slight pressure to see if it sticks. It should always return to the open position on its own. A sticking gate is a major safety hazard.
• Locking Mechanism (if applicable): For screw-gates, ensure the sleeve rotates freely and smoothly from locked to unlocked without cross-threading. For auto-locking carabiners (e.g., Twist-Lock, Ball-Lock), verify that the mechanism engages and disengages correctly every time without forcing it.

Critical Failure Points to Identify

Here are specific defects and what they mean for your gear's lifespan.

Special Cases: Wire Gates and Locking Carabiners

• Wire Gates: Check that the wire is not bent or deformed. Ensure it is securely seated in its end points. A bent wire gate can fail to close properly.
• Locking Carabiners: Pay extra attention to the locking mechanism. A malfunctioning lock is as dangerous as a cracked spine.

The Golden Rule: When in Doubt, Throw It Out

Carabiners are the workhorses of your rack, but they are not indestructible. They have a finite lifespan. If your inspection reveals any of the critical flaws listed above, or even if you just have a gut feeling that something isn't right, the safest and only correct action is to retire the carabiner permanently.

A new carabiner costs a few dollars. Your safety is priceless. By making a thorough inspection a ritual before every climb, you are not just maintaining your gear—you are actively protecting your life and the lives of those who trust you on the rope.