How Many Carabiners Do I Need for a Beginner Climbing Set?

Building your first rack of climbing gear can be overwhelming, and carabiners are its fundamental currency. As a beginner, you don't need a massive collection, but you do need the right types in the right quantities for safety and functionality. A well-considered starter set typically consists of 10 to 12 carabiners, divided into specific categories for distinct purposes.

The Breakdown: Locking vs. Non-Locking

Your first priority is locking carabiners. These are essential for any connection where failure would be catastrophic. Plan to start with at least 4-5 locking carabiners.

• Primary Use (Belaying): You will use two identical, sturdy locking carabiners for your belay device. A screwgate style is highly recommended for beginners for its simple, manual security.
• Critical Use (Anchors): You need two more locking carabiners for building personal safety anchors at the top of a climb or for attaching yourself to a top-rope anchor. Many climbers prefer pear-shaped (HMS) lockers here for their versatility with certain knots.
• Extra/Multipurpose: Having one additional locker provides flexibility for extending gear or backing up a system.

Next, you need non-locking carabiners, most commonly wire-gate carabiners. Their lightweight design makes them perfect for quickdraws. Aim for 6 to 8 non-locking carabiners.

• For Quickdraws: A standard quickdraw uses two non-locking carabiners. With 6 carabiners, you can build 3 quickdraws—this is the absolute minimum for a beginner sport climber to start practicing lead climbing on very straightforward routes. A set of 4-5 quickdraws (8-10 carabiners) is a much more practical and versatile starting point for tackling most beginner sport routes.

Scenario-Based Starter Kits

• Pure Top-Rope Gym Climber: If you'll only be top-roping in a gym with pre-established anchors, your needs are minimal: 2 locking carabiners (for your belay device) are often sufficient, as the gym provides the rope and anchors.
• Indoor Sport Climbing Beginner: For learning to lead climb indoors, a set of 5 quickdraws (10 non-locking carabiners) plus 3 locking carabiners (2 for belay, 1 for anchor) is an excellent foundation.
• Outdoor Sport Climbing Beginner: For outdoor starts, the kit expands slightly. Bring 6-8 quickdraws (12-16 non-lockers), 4-5 locking carabiners, and consider adding 2 specialty carabiners (like a wider-mouth one for clipping rope to a bolted anchor).

Critical Safety & Selection Tips

1. Certification is Non-Negotiable: Every carabiner must be UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) or CE certified. This guarantees it meets rigorous safety standards for climbing.
2. Shape Matters: For your first non-lockers, choose straight-gate carabiners for the rope-end of your quickdraw and bent-gate for the bolt-end, as the bend facilitates easier clipping.
3. Invest in Quality: Your locking carabiners are your lifelines. Choose robust, reputable brands even if it costs a bit more.
4. Learn Before You Load: Simply having the gear isn't enough. Take a course from a certified guide or your gym to learn how to use these carabiners safely—how to clip properly, avoid cross-loading, and always lock your gate.

Final Beginner Checklist

• Locking Carabiners: 4-5 (mostly screwgate)
• Non-Locking Carabiners: 10-12 (for 5-6 quickdraws)
• Total Carabiners: A versatile starting set = 14-17 units.

Start with this core collection. As you progress into trad climbing or alpine routes, you'll add more specialized carabiners. For now, this setup provides a safe, functional foundation for learning the sport. Remember, knowledge is your most important piece of gear—pair your new carabiners with professional instruction and consistent practice.